casacollins

Semana Santa is Easter Week in Spain. The day after we returned from Greece we went to the Alhambra to see one church's procession. The way it works is that churches from all over Granada, Seville, Malaga and some other Andalusian cities have these processions during Semana Santa. Sometimes there are several in one day. Churches have anywhere from dozens to hundreds of parishoners participating. The main event is preceded by various church members dressed in traditional costumes parading solemnly through the streets. This particular procession was emerging from the gates of the Alhambra which was particularly poignant because the Mulslims/Moors had occupied (and built) the Alhambra for hundreds of years till Queen Isabella (La Catolica) kicked them out. Here we saw all these Catholics parading out of the Arab archway leading to what had been the last stronghold of the Muslims.

Anyway, we stood in the hot afternoon sun with a thousand other people waiting and waiting for the procession to start. Of course they were about an hour off schedule, but not one person left. Everyone knew their patience would be rewarded. Finally, the procession began. So many different outfits: the women with their black veils and big hair combs, the men in their pointy hats (definitely NOT KKK, but uncomfortably similar dress whose roots are in the Spanish Inquisition), children in robes carrying enormous candles, more men in funny Shakespearean-looking hats, a few guys in suits (much more boring than the guys in tights) and finally what we had been waiting for...the "float" of Mary and Jesus. All the churches have these enormous, gilded, carved wood figures seated on thrones adorned with flowers and gold decorations. Interestingly enough, the Semana Santa procession is so important for a lot of people here that they actually PAY money to be the ones to carry the 2 ton float!


The second photo, too is of the Semana Santa procession. The hundreds of people from this particular church began in the Alhambra Palace and walked about mile down to Plaza Nueva where thousands more onlookers waited eagerly to see the Virgin and her son and the wonderful marching band that followed the float celebrating the whole resurrection and all that it means. They're not really into the Easter Bunny here. I guess you can't compete with the big dogs in a Catholic country like Spain. In fact, all week the Spanish folks in Andalucia spend their evenings watching these processionals and "celebrating" their Catholicism. For some it's the only time they do it, for others it's their way of life. Muy interesante.



This is Wynne (far right) and some of her classmates in their traditional flamenco outfits for the El Dia de la Cruz celebration at school. The jean jacket is NOT traditional but is an expression of Wynne's own personal flare for fashion (note the pink glitter shoes and scarf tied stylishly around her waist). Celebrated on May 3, this day is when big crosses are erected in many plazas throughout the city and decorated with flowers. Then people from the neighborhood come out in their outfits (or whatever they have on) and dance and celebrate The Day of the Cross. After asking several people and looking in some books to find out what its significance is, I hate to say it, but I don't know that there is anything specific or historic or symbolic these folks are celebrating. Honestly, the Andalusians are famous for their ability to party. I think that's what they are really celebrating!

Our family trying to look as Spanish as it gets. Our wonderful neighbor, Genoveva, used to be in a flamenco dance troupe with her husband, hence the dresses for me and Lydia and hats for Mark and Reed. She made both of the dresses Lydia and I are wearing for her daughter and herself! Wynne is sporting a flamenco dress of her own, complete with facepaint. Lydia's dress probably weighs close to 5 pounds and is made of lace and ribbons. We had a great time dressing up, but somehow could not bring our non-native selves to wear these outfits beyond our back yard, with the exception of Wynne who would wear hers everywhere if only it didn't have to get washed!

Here is a picture of the plaza near our house with the decorated cross in the background and our friends (Alina, Tony and Sandra) and kids dancing in the foreground. The rain was a slight deterrant, but nevertheless did not keep us from celebrating El Dia de la Cruz. Reed is not exactly "dancing", but participating as a clapper. In flamenco dance there are often people whose job it is to clap along with the music. There are others who sing and others who play guitar or drums while the dancers do their thing. While Reed can really "cut up the rug", he does enjoy the clapping bit and is really good at it, too!

As the fiesta evolved the lights went on and the celebration grew. I love this photo for the action and ambiance of the night time fiesta. A temporary "bar" usually goes up in the plaza along with the cross serving sandwiches, sodas and beer. Along with the drinks one gets a tapas of these bean things and the fat of the jamon (of course). I was enjoying my beans when Sandra said, "Did you eat the whole thing? You're not supposed to eat that furry skin part. Just the insides, Mary." Oops. I was reminded of my Yiayia after arriving from Greece (in a train en route from NY to Ohio), who ate the entire banana in her box lunch--peel and all. While I don't think it's genetic to be inclined to eat peels, I can certainly empathize when a foreigner can't quite figure out how you're supposed to eat pineapples and watermelon!